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S15: ORIGINS
BRAZIL is the biggest coffee producer in the world. Vietnam and Colombia are in second and third in terms of worldwide coffee production, but Brazil still produces about 4 times more coffee than Colombia, and doubles Vietnam’s coffee production. Today, coffee quality control technology is quite advanced in Brazil, and Brazil is known to implement new technology to help with coffee yield/production control, fermentation and coffee processing, as well as sorting and the exportation process overall. Most coffees that grow in Brazil, are grown at an altitude of under 1600 masl. Coffee growing regions here include 5 larger ones, and are split into sub-regions. The 5 main growing regions include: Bahia, Espirito Santo, Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro, and Sāo Paulo. Some sub-regions that you might see are located within Minas Gerais, such as Cerrado, Matas de Minas, and Sul de Minas. Another popular sub-region is Mogiana, which is located in Sāo Paulo. Most coffee in Brazil goes through natural or pulped natural process, though we have seen more experimental processes in recent years such as washed, anaerobic & carbonic macerations, and introduction of non-coffee ingredients in processing too.
COLOMBIA is a large South American country and is one of the largest exporters of coffee. We see many grades of Colombian coffee around the world, ranging from the low end of commercial coffee all the way to award winning, competition grade specialty coffee. There are many regions to list for Colombia, but the slightly more common ones we see here in North America include: Antioquia, Cauca, Cundinamarca, Huila, Nariño, and Tolima. Regions we see slightly less of here include: Boyacá, Caldas, Cesar, Caquetá, Casanare, Guajira, Magdalena, Meta, Quindio, Risaralda, Santander, Valle. Colombia typically produces washed coffees historically, however we have been seeing more naturals and honeys from here, and spectacular experimental/innovative processing coming from various regions and producers. Identifying Colombian coffees may be one of the most difficult due to the many regions and profiles that exist as a result of the diverse terroir. We know it’s a tough one, so don’t be so hard on yourself if you can’t identify it!
ECUADOR is a South American country, and has been growing coffee for a long time, though has been more popular over the past 10 years. Ecuadorian coffees grow in very diverse environments, ranging from sea level to above 2000 masl. There are many challenges with growing coffee in Ecuador due to climate change (and being on the equator), but we are so glad to see improvement in coffee quality year after year. Coffee grows in 10 or more separate regions, though we do see specialty coffees grown more commonly in Loja, Pichincha, El Oro, and Galapagos. Other coffee growing regions include: Azuay, Carchi, Chimborazo, Imbabura, Tungurahua, and Zamora-Chinchipe.
ETHIOPIA is known to be the birthplace of coffee. The majority of coffee farmers and producers in Ethiopia are smallholder farmers, owning less than 1 hectare of land. Cherries are mostly picked and sold to a cooperative, or dried naturally and then sold to a cooperative. Many coffees you see from Ethiopia will not have a farmer or producer’s name for this reason. When you see one specific name, it is likely because they are a larger, privately owned estate, or a larger cooperative with one head manager or owner. Ethiopian regions sometimes shift to this day due to the political and social climate, though we do see the majority of coffees from the following regions and sub-regions: Guji, Sidama, Yirgacheffe, and Harrar. Other less common regions we see in North American coffee shops include: Djimma/Jimma, Limu/Limmu, Lekempti/Nekemte, Kaffa, Arsi, and Bale. Coffees from Ethiopia are usually washed or natural, and we may occasionally see a honey or experimental process coffee.
INDONESIA, located in Southeast Asia, is split into larger coffee-growing regions with their specific and prototypical flavour profiles. Regions include Bali, Flores, Java, Sulawesi, and Sumatra. East Timor, Timor-Leste, and Papua New Guinea are often included as regions as well. One of the main coffee processing methods here is wet-hulled as a result of the climate. The high humidity environment demands a different approach, where wet-hulled is similar to a washed process, but involves more than one drying period. Instead of washing and drying once, it is dried to 50-55%, sold or stored, then half-dried again where the parchment is removed (i.e. wet-milled). It is finally air-dried again, and exported. Recently, in addition to wet-hulled (AKA giling basah), we are seeing more washed, semi-washed, and natural processes, as well as experimental processing.
KENYA joined the coffee exporting industry relatively late in the 1960s. Many farmers and producers, similar to Ethiopia, own small lots and sell cherry to a cooperative, where it is then further processed. Kenya has its own sales channels, mostly selling either in an auction, or direct to a buyer. You will see that most coffee varietals coming out of Kenya have the letters “SL” in front of them, an abbreviation for “Scott Laboratories”. Some other common varietals now grown and found in Kenya include Ruiru 11, Batian, and K7. There are many regions to list for Kenya, but the slightly more common ones we see here in North America include: Kericho, Kiambu, Kirinyaga, Kisii, Mt. Elgon, Murang’a, and Nyeri. Regions we see slightly less of here include: Bungoma, Embu, Machakos, Meru, Nakuru, Taita Taveta, Thika, Tran-Nzoia.
RWANDA is a smaller coffee-producing country, located in East Africa. Rwanda began coffee production closer to the beginning of the 20th century, and currently there are many smallholder farmers who have small coffee farms, bringing their cherry to a local washing station. Most Rwandan coffees grow Bourbon or Red Bourbon, and coffees are generally washed process. We have seen increasingly more natural-processed Rwandans, and the occasional honey-processed coffee. Rwandan coffees, especially washed process coffees, tend to have a heavier and silky mouthfeel, sometimes even having a savoury characteristic to it as well. Coffees can have floral notes which can remind us of many African coffees, and have tropical fruit or berries with sugars that are generally lighter (sugarcane, honey, light brown sugar, light caramel).
TANZANIA is located in East Africa, and uses a similar coffee grading system to Kenya (AA, B, PB, etc.). Although their crops can sometimes be inconsistent, Tanzania may be most known for having a high peaberry production. Most coffees go through a washed process, and most typical varietals grown here include Arusha, Bourbon, Blue Mountain, and Kent. In recent years, we have also seen some new varietals grow well in Tanzania.
VIETNAM is the second highest coffee-producing country in the world. Although known to produce mostly Robusta, there has been a growing specialty coffee industry with Arabica, especially with Catimor, Caturra, Typica, and Bourbon. Both Arabica and Robusta in Vietnam generally grows below 1600 masl.
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S15: VARIETALS
ABYSSINIA, ATENG, P88 are commonly grown in Indonesia. Abyssinia typically has a longberry appearance. Ateng is a common name for Catimor coffees. P88 was introduced to Indonesia from Colombia, and is still a relatively uncommon varietal to see. All 3 varietals have robusta-related genetics.
CASTILLO originated from and is typically only grown in Colombia, developed for its rust resistance by Cenicafé. Descended from the Colombia variety, it was released in 2005, and continues to provide good yield and production to date. Castillo is sometimes seen as less desirable compared to other varietals that have high cup quality and low yields, however there are certainly excellent Castillos out there. Flavour profile for a typical washed coffee is smooth body and citric acidity. CATURRA was originally discovered in Brazil, and is now widely grown in Latin American countries, including: Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico, Peru. Related to Bourbon plant as it is a natural mutation of Bourbon.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/caturra
CATIMOR originated in Portugal, and is widely grown in Central & South America and Asia due to strong resistance to leaf rust. It is a hybrid between Caturra and Timor, and thus contains arabica and robusta genetics. Catimor grows best at altitudes lower than 1700 meters above sea level. Cup quality can sometimes be inconsistent, and due to the robusta genetics can occasionally result in a bitter aftertaste. It can even have notes of rubber when there are issues with growing, harvesting, processing, or roasting. However, there are very good quality Catimors out there that have great tasting characteristics.
CHIROSO is a new varietal, originating from a specific region named Urrao in Antioquia. When it was first “identified” about 9 years ago, it was named Caturra Chiroso due to the oblong, Caturra-like shape. However, recent genetic studies have shown that it is actually a recent Ethiopian arrival, and has Ethiopian landrace genetics. Unfortunately there isn’t much more information on this varietal, though it is highly prized as a complex yet delicate coffee. Chiroso is currently only grown in Colombia.
KURUME + WOLISHO varieties originate from Ethiopia. The Jimma Agricultural Research Center (JARC) is currently doing more research on Ethiopian varietals, finding and naming unique varietals or strains of coffee. Kurume + Wolisho typically have a small bean size after roasting, oftentimes has some variation in size, and can sometimes have longberries mixed in. The flavour profile of this coffee is generally floral and delicate, and usually very fruit-forward.
MEJORADO is typically grown in Ecuador, and is commonly mistaken to be Typica Mejorado. In recent years, World Coffee Research has demonstrated that it is a Bourbon varietal hybridized with an Ethiopian Landrace varietal. The flavour profile of this coffee is generally very sweet with a high quality acidity compared to Bourbon.
PACAMARA is a cross between Pacas and Maragogype. Characterized by its larger seed size and oblong shape, it is very susceptible to disease and difficult to grow. The flavour profile is typically high quality, with lots of acidity and oftentimes brings a slightly savoury aspect to the cup.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/pacamara
RED BOURBON can sometimes be referred to as BOURBON. Bourbon is one of the main arabica varieties in the world, and is typically differentiated by peak ripeness colour (red, pink/orange, yellow). It was originally introduced in Brazil, and it made its way through Latin America and East Africa. There is a lack of research regarding the many Bourbon-related varieties. From this season’s Leaderboard list of countries, we have seen coffees labelled Bourbon and/or Red Bourbon grown in Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Rwanda, and Vietnam.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/bourbon
RED CATUAI is grown in many places around the world, most typically in Central and South America, including but not limited to: Bolivia, Brazil, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Panama. Catuai is a hybrid between Caturra and Mundo Novo, and grows as typically either red or yellow catuai. Catuai is 100% arabica due to the genetic lineage. Due to the different maturation colours, they can sometimes be mixed into the same lot if the specific lot is not separated/isolated. In some ways, this variety is slightly more difficult than others to identify via taste.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/catuai
RUIRU 11, SL-28, SL-34 is a combination of coffees that come from Kenya. SL-28 + SL-34 originated from Kenya’s Scott Laboratories, a research program that conducts coffee varietal research. SL-28 and SL-34 are Bourbon-related varietals, and provides a great price for farmers & producers due to the market demand. This is grown most commonly in Kenya, but have recently been grown in Colombia, Costa Rica, and Ecuador. This varietal can oftentimes taste of blackcurrant, tomato/red fruit, and/or black tea. Ruiru 11 is also mostly grown in Kenya. Ruiru 11 is a compact, high yielding variety developed in Kenya to allow for more intensive coffee production with fewer losses from diseases and pests. The varieties involved in the original hybridization include: SL-28, SL-34, Sudan Rume, N39, K7, SL4 and Timor Hybrid.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/sl28
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/sl34
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/ruiru-11