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S13: ORIGINS
COLOMBIA is a large South American country and is one of the largest exporters of coffee. We see many grades of Colombian coffee around the world, ranging from the low end of commercial coffee all the way to award winning, competition grade specialty coffee. There are many regions to list for Colombia, but the slightly more common ones we see here in North America include: Antioquia, Cauca, Cundinamarca, Huila, Nariño, and Tolima. Regions we see slightly less of here include: Boyacá, Caldas, Cesar, Caquetá, Casanare, Guajira, Magdalena, Meta, Quindio, Risaralda, Santander, Valle. Colombia typically produces washed coffees historically, however we have been seeing more naturals and honeys from here, and spectacular experimental/innovative processing coming from various regions and producers. Identifying Colombian coffees may be one of the most difficult due to the many regions and profiles that exist as a result of the diverse terroir. We know it’s a tough one, so don’t be so hard on yourself if you can’t identify it!
ECUADOR is a South American country, and has been growing coffee for a long time, though has been more popular over the past 10 years. Ecuadorian coffees grow in very diverse environments, ranging from sea level to above 2000 masl. There are many challenges with growing coffee in Ecuador due to climate change (and being on the equator), but we are so glad to see improvement in coffee quality year after year. Coffee grows in 10 or more separate regions, though we do see specialty coffees grown more commonly in Loja, Pichincha, El Oro, and Galapagos. Other coffee growing regions include: Azuay, Carchi, Chimborazo, Imbabura, Tungurahua, and Zamora-Chinchipe.
ETHIOPIA is known to be the birthplace of coffee. The majority of coffee farmers and producers in Ethiopia are smallholder farmers, owning less than 1 hectare of land. Cherries are mostly picked and sold to a cooperative, or dried naturally and then sold to a cooperative. Many coffees you see from Ethiopia will not have a farmer or producer’s name for this reason. When you see one specific name, it is likely because they are a larger, privately owned estate, or a larger cooperative with one head manager or owner. Ethiopian regions sometimes shift to this day due to the political and social climate, though we do see the majority of coffees from the following regions and sub-regions: Guji, Sidama, Yirgacheffe, and Harrar. Other less common regions we see in North American coffee shops include: Djimma/Jimma, Limu/Limmu, Lekempti/Nekemte, Kaffa, Arsi, and Bale. Coffees from Ethiopia are usually washed or natural, and we may occasionally see a honey or experimental process coffee.
KENYA joined the coffee exporting industry relatively late in the 1960s. Many farmers and producers, similar to Ethiopia, own small lots and sell cherry to a cooperative, where it is then further processed. Kenya has its own sales channels, mostly selling either in an auction, or direct to a buyer. You will see that most coffee varietals coming out of Kenya have the letters “SL” in front of them, an abbreviation for “Scott Laboratories”. Some other common varietals now grown and found in Kenya include Ruiru 11, Batian, and K7. There are many regions to list for Kenya, but the slightly more common ones we see here in North America include: Kericho, Kiambu, Kirinyaga, Kisii, Mt. Elgon, Murang’a, and Nyeri. Regions we see slightly less of here include: Bungoma, Embu, Machakos, Meru, Nakuru, Taita Taveta, Thika, Tran-Nzoia.
MEXICO is the 8th largest coffee producing country. There has been a shifting focus towards Mexican coffees due to quality improvements in recent years, such as lot and varietal separation, new varietals being grown, and great growing conditions. There are 4 main regions that are slightly more well-known for coffee production, including: Chiapas, Oaxaca, Puebla, and Veracruz. Some other regions that also grow coffee include: Colima, Guerrero, Hidalgo, Jalisco, Michoacan, Nayarit, and San Luis Potosi. Most coffee from Mexico goes through a washed process, though we are seeing more natural- and honey-processed coffees, as well as experimental processes.
YEMEN, alongside Ethiopia, is known to have one of the longest standing coffee productions and coffee culture history. Due to the political climate, coffee production has since reduced drastically (about 0.1% of the world’s production), and it has become quite difficult to export coffee out of Yemen. Coffee from Yemen is becoming more and more challenging to find due to barriers such as lack of specialty coffee to fill a container, import/export restrictions, and lack of available water for crops and/or replacement of coffee plants with other crops. The main growing region that we’ve seen is Haraaz, and the main processing method in Yemen is natural, though we have seen some more anaerobic naturals in recent years. The flavour profile is usually quite distinct, usually tasting quite wine-like with lots of spices or florals, and is very complex overall.
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S13: VARIETALS
CATURRA was originally discovered in Brazil, and is now widely grown in Latin American countries, including: Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico, Peru. Related to Bourbon plant as it is a natural mutation of Bourbon.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/caturra
CHIROSO is a new varietal, originating from a specific region named Urrao in Antioquia. When it was first “identified” about 9 years ago, it was named Caturra Chiroso due to the oblong, Caturra-like shape. However, recent genetic studies have shown that it is actually a recent Ethiopian arrival, and has Ethiopian landrace genetics. Unfortunately there isn’t much more information on this varietal, though it is highly prized as a complex yet delicate coffee. Chiroso is currently only grown in Colombia.
LANDRACE/HEIRLOOM ETHIOPIAN varieties originate from Ethiopia with non-traceable specificity of varietals; also known as “heirloom varietals”. The Jimma Agricultural Research Center (JARC) is currently doing more research on Ethiopian varietals, finding and naming unique varietals or strains of coffee such as 74110, or Dega. Typically very small bean size after roasting, oftentimes has some variation in size, and can sometimes have longberries mixed in.
GESHA/GEISHA originates from Ethiopia, but is now grown in many countries due to the unique flavour profile and market value. Countries that we have seen geshas grown in include: Colombia, Costa Rica, Ethiopia, Indonesia, Mexico, and Peru. From the Leaderboard list of countries, we have not seen a gesha from Burundi nor Kenya. World Coffee Research resource is incomprehensive with Gesha-related varietals.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/geisha
JAADI is the name of a coffee tree variety native to Yemen, and there is limited research on the traceability of this identifier. Yemeni coffee varietals are often thought to be similar to how we label some Ethiopian coffees a “landrace variety”. With the lack of clarification and research done on this varietal, we can think of Jaadi to be synonymous with “Yemeni landrace varietal.
SIDRA is a hybridization of Bourbon and Typica, and sometimes called Bourbon Sidra. Sidra was found and named in Ecuador, and studies have more recently suggested it is also related to Ethiopian landrace/heirloom varietals. Sidra often has a green apple, or malic acidity, and usually has floral and fruit-forward flavours, resulting in a very complex cup when processed and roasted well. Sidra is most commonly grown in Ecuador and Colombia, and can also be found in Brazil.
SL-28 originated from Kenya’s Scott Laboratories, a research program that conducts coffee varietal research. SL-28 is a Bourbon-related varietal, and provides a great price for farmers & producers due to the market demand. This is grown most commonly in Kenya, but have recently been grown in Colombia, Costa Rica, and Ecuador. This varietal can oftentimes taste of blackcurrant, tomato/red fruit, and/or black tea.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/sl28
SL-28 + SL-34 + Ruiru 11 + Batian is a combination of coffees that come from Kenya. SL-28 + SL-34 originated from Kenya’s Scott Laboratories, a research program that conducts coffee varietal research. SL-28 and SL-34 are Bourbon-related varietals, and provides a great price for farmers & producers due to the market demand. This is grown most commonly in Kenya, but have recently been grown in Colombia, Costa Rica, and Ecuador. This varietal can oftentimes taste of blackcurrant, tomato/red fruit, and/or black tea. Ruiru 11 + Batian are also mostly grown in Kenya. Ruiru 11 is a compact, high yielding variety developed in Kenya to allow for more intensive coffee production with fewer losses from diseases and pests. Batian was released in Kenya in 2010, and is a F5 generation selection from Ruiri 11. The varieties involved in the original hybridization include: SL-28, SL-34, Sudan Rume, N39, K7, SL4 and Timor Hybrid.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/sl28
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/sl34
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/ruiru-11
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/batian
TYPICA originated in Ethiopia, and was then transported to Yemen, Indonesia, and Brazil. Known to be one of the most important varietals in the world due to its high cup quality and cultural importance, this varietal is grown in almost all coffee-growing countries around the world. They usually have a smoother, flat surface, are slightly elongated, with slightly deeper and wider inner grooves.
> https://varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org/varieties/typica